We drove along a beautiful beachside community. As we left town and drove along the coast I noticed the ocean was such a beautiful shade of green. When I asked about what turned the water here so green our driver informed me that the plankton come in with the current in this area and turn the water an incredible shade of green. Absolutely gorgeous!!!! We had a lovely view of the picturesque bay surrounded by green grassy fields. During the one hour drive Denise entertained us with stories and legends about how her ancestors came to this land over 700 years ago. She was so much fun to watch and listen to as she spoke. Her eyes sparkled with pride and I couldn't keep from smiling as she talked about her beloved family and their rich history and traditions. She told us that we would be meeting some of them once we reached the conservation reserve.
While still on the bus Denise prepped us for how we should behaved when we were met by the tribe. She said we would be met by a warrior who would come out, shake his spear mightily at us and walk away grumbling. This behavior meant he did not find us acceptable to enter the village. Then, in a moment he would return to give us another chance to impress him. Our "chief" representative would offer some words of praise to him with great reverence and humility. Then, the warrior would throw a flower on the ground and we would be allowed to enter through the Arch of the Ancestors into their grounds. For hundreds of years, whenever this area was attacked the sacred grounds on this mountain served to protect the Maori people and repel their enemies.
As we traveled inland, a beautiful valley unfolded before us. It was covered with farmland, orchards and vineyards. The road continued to become narrower and more winding as we gain altitude. When we got off the bus at the top of the mountain we had breathtaking views of a nearby island which is located just off the coast. Again, the waters were so green and beautiful. Shortly before we were to arrive at our destination we heard the loud sound of a conch shell being sounded to notify the villagers that we were approaching.
As we disembarked from the bus, just as Denise promised, we were met by a spear carrying warrior who gave us a bit of a "scare"by looking ferocious with his face covered in war paint, shouting Maori words that sounded quite intimidating! Actually, at that moment I thought perhaps this had not been a wise choice for a day trip. I was ready to turn and burn! After a short time he settled down and we were granted admittance (although I managed to keep my distance from his throughout the day).
Once inside, a warrior explained some of their family's history to us. He told us that we did not have to be concerned if we hadn't showered and worn our Sunday best clothes because the Maori were no longer cannibals. They no longer eat people and had enough food so they were not hungry right now. You could see many of us squirm in our seats a bit as we let out a soft, nervous laugh ad then he smiled at us.
Once our nerves settled a bit we were able to concentrate as the villagers demonstrated their different skills such as flax weaving and woodcarving, still practiced today as they were by their ancestors hundreds of years ago. One of the women stepped up to the explain the tatoos on her face. The girl explained that they represent her past, present and future. There were tattoos of her family, events, etc. Her entire story is told on her face. It was so interesting and once again reminded me not to judge someone who looks different than the people with whom I am usually involved. Next, the entire village performed their traditional action songs and dances in an emotional and truly authentic atmosphere. The young boys were especially cute with their painted faces, sticking out their tongues and opening their eyes so wide they looked they might pop out of their sockets. They were learning to look ferocious! They are definitely learning their lessons well. Finally, one of the warriors explained to us that each tribe has its own "meeting house" which is built for the entire tribe. Anyone in the tribe is welcome to use the meeting house. It is a place of reflection, prayers, and a gatherig place for one's thoughts. Even though a tribe member may move to another part of the world, they know that they always have a home in the meeting house where they an go for solace. Evidently people return frequently, even after many years of living far away, to seek the peace and solitude of their tribe's meeting house. What a beautiful tradition.
Before we left, each of us was given a poi ball on a string which we learned to twirl and bounce as the children sang a traditional song to accompany us. Needless to say, there were poi balls bouncing all over the place. Since our group consists of a more "mature" audience, it just goes to show you definitely can't teach an old dog new tricks!!!!
As we boarded our bus for our return to the ship I had a whole new appreciation for the Maori people. I had always heard that they were a fierce and warlike people. All of the photos I had seen were faces painted for war, with frightening images of them with huge eyes and very long tongues. While they did fight for their land on many occasions and we saw firsthand that they could be quite fierce, we also saw they are a kind, thoughtful and gentle people who love their families and treasure their time together. Their passion for their homeland and their ancestors came though with every word they spoke. Much like our native Americans in in the U.S., the Maori were here when the Europeans arrived and started to settle in New Zealand. The Maori were forced from much of their land and made to learn new skills to survive in their new world. Most Maori now live in cities, living and working beside the Europeans and people from all over the world who have settled in this beautiful country. However, their hearts and traditions will always belong to the ways of the ancestors.
I felt incredibly blessed to have had an opportunity spend a day with this remarkable group of people. I learned a lot about their gentle, giving spirit and beautiful traditions. I don't want to lose this feeling of love and appreciation for all of these other cultures once we get back to the U.S. This incredible insight to other people in the world is absolutely my favorite part of this trip and I will keep memories like today with me forever.
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