Finally, we got to experience the Aboriginal culture!! I was becoming a bit concerned that we would leave Australia without having an opportunity to interact with this ancient and intriguing people. Today we visited the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park. Aboriginals are Australia's indigenous people and are the oldest known cultural group in the world. I was anxious for an opportunity to meet and interact with some folks from this fascinating and important group since I knew very little about them. The park was about a 30 minute drive inland from our ship and was located at the bottom of the rain forest. What a beautiful setting. It was very warm and humid today but I didn't care that my face was hot and pouring sweat. My growing excitement and anticipation, the tropical weather, lush vegetation and beautiful surrounding served as validation that I was about to experience a very unique culture.
First we were escorted into a large gathering area to learn about the tribes and their art. We learned that there are 500 separate and distinct Aboriginal tribes in Australia. Each tribe has its own laws, leaders, traditions, art and culture. Tribes do not interfere in each others affairs. Each of them are completely autonomous. Although many of the Aboriginal people have assimilated somewhat into the general population of Australia, the Northern Territory continues to have some tribes who remain true to their ancestral ways and have not seen outsiders for at least 20 years. In those areas they still live by "Black Lore (Black Law) which is VERY difference from "White Law". One of our hosts today showed us an actual spear of the same type as the ones used today by some of the northern tribes. It is a long spear with serrations cut into both sides, all the way down. It is used to discipline the men when they have been found guilty of committing a crime. The person assigned to carry out the discipline on the law breaker pinches a large area of the man's thigh muscle and holds it out while he slowly pushes the ed of the spear through the pinched skin until it comes out the other side. He continues pushing until the entire spear has passed through the thigh. He told us that many of the men in the northern tribes walk with a limp
. Would want to be a member of those tribes - think I would be movin' south!! Of course, I was still in shock over the thought of someone putting a ragged spear through my leg, but our speaker had already moved on to showing us the other hunting tools and weapons they used including six types of boomerangs, spears and swords. After learning about all of the weapons I really wouldn't want to be in trouble with any of these tribes - they are very serious with their weaponry!!!! At one point, one of the tribemen collected Bob from the audience, stood him in front of the audience, and demonstrated how they immobilize their opponent with their various weapons. Bob was a great sport, but I'm sure he was glad when he sat down with no significant injuries from the encounter!!!
We had the opportunity to watch the traditional dances of the Tjapukai people. We saw dances which imitated kangaroos, cranes, and the cassowary, which is the symbol of the Tjapukai people. We learned their traditional way of making fire (although it took them a few tries, and were quite embarrassed in front of us), and we even had the chance to participate in some of their songs and dances. We also had a demonstration of how to play the didgeridoo, the traditional Australian instrument. They explained that the wood used to make the instrument is found by searching the forest for a tree that has a hollow core. This happens when termites eat the inside of the trunk. They can thump on the trunk to determine if it is hollow. Then they cut down the tree, scrape and clean out the remaining core, then paint it They put beeswax on the end to protect their mouths while they're playing it. It's quite a difficult instrument to play because of the breathing that is required. The musician must breath through both the nose and mouth at the same times, using both chest and abdominal breathing. Quite a skill to learn!!!
We learned that the Aboriginal people used a lot of native plants, seeds and ingredients for their food and medicine. A couple of the more unusual ingredients were termite mounds (used for natural vitamins and cure for diarrhea) and green ants (used for coughs, colds, ulcers, and can be rubbed on the chest for congestion relief).
Soon it was time for us to leave, although I wasn't at all ready to move on. I had so many questions I didn't have a chance to ask. This was such an interesting group of people. The few moments of private conversation I did have with a couple of the tribesmen lead me to believe that the Aboriginals harbor a great amount of anger over the loss of the land they have suffered at the hands of the "outsiders". Again, much as our native Americans, so much has been taken from them. Although they have been "granted" land by the government, they would like to have all of "their" land returned to them, since they were the original people to live in Australia. Until then, they will settle for sharing their culture, making visitors to this beautiful part of the world understand the traditions of their Aboriginal ancestors.
Our final stop for the day was the beautiful botanical gardens. We had an opportunity to walk around these gorgeous grounds filled with native, tropical plants and flowers. However, there were also beautiful flowering plants from the Far East, Southeast Asia and other parts of the world. There was an amazing array of color and textures in a beautiful and peaceful setting. What a great way to finish our amazing outing today. Yes, since we are in a rainforest area, it did rain. We came back to the ship with wet hair and damp clothes but somehow it just added to the ambiance.
One final note - as we were driving to the Aboriginal Village we passed some large trees filled with flying foxes (bats) hanging upside down, sleeping in the branches. Our guide told us that later this evening they would start flying and looking for food. Before dinner we looked out our balcony and, sure enough, there were hundreds of bats flying everywhere. What an amazing sight. Think Bob will include a picture of them.
We have another day here in Cairns tomorrow. We will ride the jungle train up through the rainforest and then take the cable car back down just over the canopy of the trees. Looking forward to it!!
Cairns, Day 2:
Today was a remarkably scenic and fun day for us. This morning a bus picked us up and drove us to the Kuranda Scenic Railway Station, which was about 20 minutes inland. Our mode of transportation to the top of the mountain was a beautiful train which runs between Cairns and Kuranda, which is at the top of the rainforest.
In 1873 gold was discovered in these mountains so there was an increase in the rush of miners to get from the towns below, though the rainforest, and to the top of the mountains. Any sort of ground transportation was unreliable since the rainy season would frequently wash out supply routes and made roads impassable. People already on top of the mountain could die of starvation waiting for supplies to arrive. So, a Herculean effort to build a railroad through the very steep terrain the the rainforest, with sections of granite, to the top of the mountain was begun in 1887. In June, 1891, the line between Cairns and Kuranda was opened. When I consider all of our modern engineering equipment and the lack of equipment they had in thee 1800's it was amazing to behold what these men accomplished. 1500 men hand dug 15 tunnels, laid 37 km of track, with a ascent of 327 meters above sea level (wish I knew how to convert to U.S measures but I don't - sorry). I just know that when looking at their work I was absolutely astonished they could complete this task with so few tools!!
The railway cars we rode in today were built in the very early 1900's so they were quite Victorian in their design and furnishings - absolutely gorgeous. When it was time for morning tea (after all, this IS Australia) they brought us enough food for an all day ride. They started with bacon and cheese muffins, spinach and feta cheese muffins, followed by cookies like the ones aked and shipped by wives of Army soldiers who were serving in Australia during WWII. Finally, the brought us a mango sorbet. Of course, the wine flowed freely but this time Bob and I settled for water. Just amazing!! The ride took us past lush, dense tropical foliage, extremely steep cliffs with waters so full they were racing down the cliffs at full throttle. So beautiful. There were two overlooks on the ascebt so we had an opportunity to get out to take photographs. Hopefully, Bob will post some good pictures.
After our lovely 90 minute train ride we arrived at the top of the mountain, in the village of Kuranda. We had some free time to walk around and explore this quaint mountaintop community Bob an I went through most of the shops and still had quite a bit of time left (we're fast shoppers) so we made a rip to the visitor center. They told us a walk we could take the the rainforest. So, we were off to explore. For those of you who now me you understand that this took some courage on my part, sine this IS DEFINITELY NOT Disneyland and there are real crawly creatures out there!!! But, I was with Bob an I knew he would protect me so off we went :). We walked over a narrow board path, crossed an old wooden bridge, looked down and spotted a HUGE lizard. Luckily, lizards have legs so I didn't completely freak out. However, it did get my full attention as we passed.
It was interesting to experience how much cooler the temperature is underneath the canopy of trees. Breathtakingly beautiful. So quiet and peaceful, except for the sound of the water running over the rocks through the steams, birds singing their songs and the rustle of branches as the wildlife moved through it. On our return we spotted something that looked like a wild turkey. Not sure what it was. l Quite an exhilarating feeling to be walking through a completely natural and untamed environment.
Once we were back in the village we enjoyed a delicious ice cream. As we did Bob was talking to the young woman at the counter and he asked her what young people did for fun in the evening. She said "not much". She told us that once the last train leave the station to take the guests back down the mountain all of the shops close up for the day and all of the villagers go home!! Sounds like a very peaceful life but perhaps a bit boring for young people.
Our next stop was only a few minutes away. It was the start of the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, which was our ride back down the mountain, over the canopy of the immense and beautiful rainforest. It is the oldest continually surviving tropical rainforest in the world. Scientists have dated it back more than 120 million years. It was home to dinosaurs and some of the earliest known flowering plant species. Just unreal being there.
We walked up the stairs to get to the cable cars. Our car held four people and we were lucky to be with another couple with whom we have become friends on the ship. For the next 4.7 miles we soared slowly and gracefully over the tops of the trees, always searching eagerly for any wildlife, waterfalls, or unusual trees/foliage. Within the first five minutes I spotted a large kangaroo hopping along a riverbank. What a treat!!! We had magnificent views of a major waterfall with many smaller streams coming together just before the edge of the cliff to form three or four major falls. The water rockets down and crashes forcefully on the rocks below, creating a loud booming sound and splashing into thousands of sparkling droplets. So amazing to watch such a powerful force suddenly become so delicate and intricate.
As we rode along the cable, our highest point was 1788 feet, which looked REALLY high to us :) Just incredible. Two times during our journey we came to a platform where we were able to get out and take a walk through the rainforest. Of course we jumped at this opportunity. Then, we hopped back on another cable car and continued our trek down the mountain. As we started down one of the paths we noticed a spider hanging along one of the rails. It was about 5" in size - nothing I wanted to explore closely. We moved on rather quickly. What beautiful walks. Just a bit surreal to me to think I was walking through a rainforest. Really amazing! I can now scratch another item off my bucket list!!
We reached the bottom of the hill, made a quick trip through the gift shop and made a speedy return to the bus. We enjoyed the rides and the walks so much that we were the last ones to return to the bus. Had we been a few minutes later we might have become permanent residents of the rainforest!!!
We made our way back to the ship with beautiful memories of these last two days. We've had lots of interesting experiences. I have now eaten kangaroo, wallaby, ostrich, and crocodile. Not sure I would eat any of these foods again, but at least I tried them.
Once back in our room I sat out on our beautiful balcony until the flying foxes (bats) started soaring over us in the early evening. Such a fascinating sight. We watched the crew as the readied the ship and untied from the dock. Australia is an enormous and beautiful country. Like the U.S., so diverse in its people and landscapes. We have only scratched the surface of this great land. Hopefully, some day will will return. Now, on to even more exotic ports. Next stop, Papua New Guinea. First, a day sailing through the beautiful Coral Sea.
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