Lima, the capital city of Peru was founded in 1535 by Spanish explorer Francisco Pizarro. Although it was previously known as the "city of kings" because of the power and prestige it enjoyed, today the riches are in its diverse culture. Lima has the finest museums, swankiest shops, and most dazzling restaurants in the country.
Our outing today included a visit to one of the main squares in the city, the Plaza Mayor, which is surrounded by beautiful old colonial buildings and flower filled planters. There were white and red geraniums, yellow and white roses, and gorgeous purple jacaranda trees. Tourists, as well as local families, walked around and enjoyed the peaceful respite from the surrounding hectic city. Toddlers ran around, chasing the many birds and mothers/fathers tried to keep up with them and catch them before they ran out into the street! Ten million people reside in Lima so neighborhood parks and squares are a great escape from the hustle and bustle.
We walked to an old colonial mansion which continues to be occupied by direct descendants of the original owners. Eighteen generations of the Aliaga family have lived here. Upkeep of the mansion became quite expensive so the current family residents opened up the house for tours to help with expenses. It was an absolutely spectacular home. There were marble floors, wide staircases, dark and rich mahogany wood trim everywhere, beautiful, intricately carved ceilings in many of the rooms. Dark wooden beams and gold leaf adornments abound throughout the home. Priceless art, including paintings, statues, and bronzes fill the space with grace and beauty. Although the furnishings were quite elegant the home had a very comfortable feel to it. We were allowed to sit on the furniture and drinks were offered during our tour.
As we continued our walk we passed many buildings which had a neoclassical design. Our guide explained that in 1746 there was a major earthquake in Peru which killed thousands of people. Two thousand properties were affected and only a few hundred people out of the population of 5,000-6,000 survived the quake and the huge tsunami which followed. Many of the buildings that exist that exist today were rebuilt after the big quake, so new styles of architecture were incorporated including neoclassical.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, religion played a huge role in people's daily lives. The influence of the Catholic Church, in particular the Jesuits, can be seen everywhere. All colonial homes had a small chapel. People had large families, perhaps 10-12 children. The goal was always to have at least one nun or priest in each family so they could pray for the rest of the family members in heaven. We visited a beautiful church, St. Peter's, where we were fortunate to to sit in for part of a lovely Peruvian wedding. It was an elegant and beautiful event filled with flowers, lots of bridesmaids, and a church full of admiring attendees.
We were fortunate to have arrived in Lima today because the city was celebrating the 480th anniversary of its founding. There are many Peruvians who came to the city this weekend to participate in the celebrations. There were fireworks, processions, traditional dancing, and vendors selling souvenirs throughout the city.
As we left the city we noticed that gasoline prices seemed to be quite expensive. Our guide explained that it is because Peru has no oil so they must import it which keeps the price high. We have thoroughly enjoyed our walking tour of this fabulous city and look forward eagerly to exploring the Peruvian countryside tomorrow.
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This morning we boarded our bus and headed for the countryside to visit Pachacamac, which is an ancient citadel. For many years this site served as an administrative center and later mainly for religious leaders. Most of the mud adobe brick buildings were constructed around 800-1450, before the Incas arrived. It continues to be an active archaeological site with many students and archeologists carefully excavating the remnants of this ancient civilization. Peruvian hairless dogs roam freely throughout the area since their breed is protected by the government. So far, 17 pyramids have been unearthed, however, they are flat on top due to numerous earthquakes. Our guide told us that the buildings were originally painted in reds, whites and yellows which were a tribute to their gods of sun, moon and earth.
There was a cemetery which was used from 690-1533. It was an incredible, but quite eerie site, with human bones, human hair, broken red pottery pieces, and rope used to bind and drag the bodies laying all over the ground. Our guide told us that many of the graves were robbed years ago and that the excavations have caused many of these artifacts to be unearthed. Instead of removing them they have decided to leave them where they were found to honor the people who died there. We learned that people were buried with their valuables such as the red pottery to escort them into the afterlife. Evidently, most of the relics we find in museums are collected from funerary offerings.
We stopped to view the temple of the sun, which is the highest point within the site and the places where religious leaders went to offer sacrifices to the sun god. This pyramid also has lost its upper stories to earthquakes so, like the others in this citadel, the top is flat. Everyone in the community was required to go to the sun temple every year on June 21st to celebrate the sun god and summer solstice, when human sacrifices were offered to the gods.
Lastly at this site we stopped to view the temple of the moon, which was used by the older, wise women from 1470-1533 to prepare specially selected young virgins for the harem or to be a sacrifice. As we learned earlier, there was no problem findings families to volunteer their young daughters as being selected for the convent was considered a great honor for the girl and her family.
Our last stop of the day was to visit a magnificent hacienda where we witnessed a beautiful display of horses and enjoyed a delicious Peruvian buffet. What a DELIGHTFUL experience. Many of you know that due to my severe allergies I have never had the privilege of being around animals, so it was an incredible treat to watch the beautiful Peruvian Paso horses ride in the ring. These horses were a medium size with thin legs, compact, rounded body, narrow head with white markings, a beautiful long full tail, gorgeous flowing mane, and very large, expressive eyes. The way they move make them a very special breed. The owner of the hacienda spoke with us and explained that they move their four legs independently which provides a very smooth and comfortable ride. Also, they have quite thick hooves so there is no need for horseshoes. It was a real thrill to watch them exhibit their grace, strength and beauty as they glided effortlessly through their maneuvers. At the end, a small group of dancers wearing traditional costumes came out and paired up with the horses and their riders and danced together. It was incredibly beautiful to watch the horses and dancers work together, always mindful of one another's presence.
Afterwards, we were escorted to a lovely outdoor patio where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. There was a mix of chicken, beef and lamb, along with potatoes and other fresh vegetables grown on the property. After lunch, we were entertained by a group of Peruvian dancers who smiled, chapped their hands, waged their handkerchiefs, stomped their feet and twirled their way through a number of dances. In addition, clowns meandered through our group, playing with us during the afternoon. The only slightly negative aspect of the entire visit was the large amount of flies around the tables. Our hosts burned incense on the tables in an attempt to keep them away but we still found ourselves swatting them away throughout the visit. However, it was a very small price to pay for such an enchanting and delightful afternoon. The eyes of these magnificent horses were absolutely focused on their human partner.
As we re-boarded our bus for our return to Lima, once again we had to pass through sandy dunes with little foliage. As we neared the city there were a number of "shanty towns" where the poorest Peruvians live. Although these dwellings look to be extremely humble, our guide told us there were basic necessities in each community. Although the roads were decent, I wouldn't want to drive here since the cars seem to play chicken with each other! I'm just glad we made it back to the port safely.
Once we arrived back at the beach we drove along the coast highway for a few miles. I have NEVER seen so many umbrellas and people crowded together on one beach. Every umbrella appeared to be touching four other umbrellas and they completely covered the sand. There was absolutely no space between blankets. Not sure how the people walked back and forth to the water! It was quite a sight. We finally arrived back at our ship and I was ready for a quick nap before dinner. We've had a couple of long, but thoroughly delightful days in Lima. Time to move on!
Saturday, January 31, 2015
Salaverry, Peru: Friday, January 16th
This lovely colonial city retains much of its original charm with elegant mansions lining the streets. As we boarded our bus for a long drive to our first stop we were told that we would be taking the Pan American Highway (U.S. Highway 1) which connects Alaska to the north, through the western U.S. and through South America all the way down to Chile/Argentina. This is certainly a busting little area. There are taxis everywhere. Our guide told us that one of the main ways people generate income is to use their cars as taxis. Evidently, it is very easy to get a taxi license in Peru.
I noticed that there was a considerable amount of construction but nothing seemed to be completed. Our guide told me that taxes are based on the completed living space in a home. Consequently, many families build a first and second floor but leave only outside walls and windows on the top floor - no roof or other finishes. That way they are not responsible for taxes on that area. At some point in the future they may finish the third floor construction when they need extra space and can afford the taxes.
We arrived at our first stop, the ancient city of Chan Chan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest clay city in pre-Hispanic America. Excavations continue here but already an enormous compound has been uncovered. First, we entered the outer ceremonial square which was built for the poor, or common, people. As we walked further into the interior squares we reached the area set aside for more distinguished people, and finally reached the place where royalty only was allowed.
Animal and human sacrifices were common events for the ancient people here. Since it was considered a great honor to serve as a sacrifice for the gods, many high profile families, as well as royalty, gladly offered their young daughters, usually 15-25 years old as a sacrifice. It is believed that the girls were given something to drink (similar to ecstasy) before the ceremony so they wouldn't feel the pain. Offering oneself was seen as an honor, not a punishment, so the sacrifice was made to feel as comfortable as possible before she was killed. It was critical to rulers that their subjects believed that their rulers were the sons of the gods. So, rulers would consult with astrologists to study the stars so they could predict weather and convince their subjects that they were divine, thus maintaining their positions of complete obedience.
There were many battles during this time and Chan Chan suffered substantial casualties. There was a Shaman who served the town and when a soldier killed an invader the Shaman would cut off the head of the invader, sew closed all of the orifices of the head and present it as a trophy to the soldier who killed him. It was believed that the spirit and strength of the slain invader would remain with the soldier. In 1533 the Spanish explorer Francisco Pizarro came to Chan Chan looking for the "gold god." When he discovered there was no gold in this area he killed everyone who lived there and the site was abandoned. Numerous funerary bundles were discovered in Chan Chan. People were buried in the fetal position, wrapped in luxurious textiles, and accompanied by colorful symbols of the culture. We saw representations of spiders throughout the compound, which was viewed as the symbol of death.
Our final stop was to see the Temple of the Dragon, or "Huaca Dragon," a 1,100 year old adobe pyramid temple. There wasn't much to see here except for a lovely unobstructed view from the top of the ruins. It was initially given the name "Temple of the Dragons" in 1845 by an American archeologist because there were many carvings of dragons on the outside wall. However, it was renamed "Temple of the Rainbows" which is more in keeping with the local culture and the time it was built. The rainbow is a symbol of blessing and was viewed as a message from the upper world.
As we drove back to the port I noticed that they have nice sandy beaches here which is not true for many beaches we have seen so far. We were told that surfing and other water sports are popular in this area. There were large empty fields with small brush and trees. Mountains formed the backdrop for our ride. Houses were quite square with little adornment and many fields were unattended. This area is not terribly clean and there does not seem to be the pride of ownership we saw in Ecuador. The last major earthquake, a magnitude of 7.9, was in 2007. Many buildings were destroyed and the effects are still clearly evident.
We asked our guide if there is a current problem with terrorism here. He told us that in the 1980's communist terrorists killed many country people, particularly farmers, so many of the remaining country people fled to the city, leaving everything behind. It was a time of high inflation and the economy was extremely depressed. Thankfully, terrorism is no longer an issue. There is minimal crime in this area. Even the firefighters are a volunteer department.
We returned to the ship tired from climbing around among the ruins all day but feeling like we have a much better understanding of the past and current culture of this area. Next, it's on to Lima where we will spend a couple of days.
I noticed that there was a considerable amount of construction but nothing seemed to be completed. Our guide told me that taxes are based on the completed living space in a home. Consequently, many families build a first and second floor but leave only outside walls and windows on the top floor - no roof or other finishes. That way they are not responsible for taxes on that area. At some point in the future they may finish the third floor construction when they need extra space and can afford the taxes.
We arrived at our first stop, the ancient city of Chan Chan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest clay city in pre-Hispanic America. Excavations continue here but already an enormous compound has been uncovered. First, we entered the outer ceremonial square which was built for the poor, or common, people. As we walked further into the interior squares we reached the area set aside for more distinguished people, and finally reached the place where royalty only was allowed.
Animal and human sacrifices were common events for the ancient people here. Since it was considered a great honor to serve as a sacrifice for the gods, many high profile families, as well as royalty, gladly offered their young daughters, usually 15-25 years old as a sacrifice. It is believed that the girls were given something to drink (similar to ecstasy) before the ceremony so they wouldn't feel the pain. Offering oneself was seen as an honor, not a punishment, so the sacrifice was made to feel as comfortable as possible before she was killed. It was critical to rulers that their subjects believed that their rulers were the sons of the gods. So, rulers would consult with astrologists to study the stars so they could predict weather and convince their subjects that they were divine, thus maintaining their positions of complete obedience.
There were many battles during this time and Chan Chan suffered substantial casualties. There was a Shaman who served the town and when a soldier killed an invader the Shaman would cut off the head of the invader, sew closed all of the orifices of the head and present it as a trophy to the soldier who killed him. It was believed that the spirit and strength of the slain invader would remain with the soldier. In 1533 the Spanish explorer Francisco Pizarro came to Chan Chan looking for the "gold god." When he discovered there was no gold in this area he killed everyone who lived there and the site was abandoned. Numerous funerary bundles were discovered in Chan Chan. People were buried in the fetal position, wrapped in luxurious textiles, and accompanied by colorful symbols of the culture. We saw representations of spiders throughout the compound, which was viewed as the symbol of death.
Our final stop was to see the Temple of the Dragon, or "Huaca Dragon," a 1,100 year old adobe pyramid temple. There wasn't much to see here except for a lovely unobstructed view from the top of the ruins. It was initially given the name "Temple of the Dragons" in 1845 by an American archeologist because there were many carvings of dragons on the outside wall. However, it was renamed "Temple of the Rainbows" which is more in keeping with the local culture and the time it was built. The rainbow is a symbol of blessing and was viewed as a message from the upper world.
As we drove back to the port I noticed that they have nice sandy beaches here which is not true for many beaches we have seen so far. We were told that surfing and other water sports are popular in this area. There were large empty fields with small brush and trees. Mountains formed the backdrop for our ride. Houses were quite square with little adornment and many fields were unattended. This area is not terribly clean and there does not seem to be the pride of ownership we saw in Ecuador. The last major earthquake, a magnitude of 7.9, was in 2007. Many buildings were destroyed and the effects are still clearly evident.
We asked our guide if there is a current problem with terrorism here. He told us that in the 1980's communist terrorists killed many country people, particularly farmers, so many of the remaining country people fled to the city, leaving everything behind. It was a time of high inflation and the economy was extremely depressed. Thankfully, terrorism is no longer an issue. There is minimal crime in this area. Even the firefighters are a volunteer department.
We returned to the ship tired from climbing around among the ruins all day but feeling like we have a much better understanding of the past and current culture of this area. Next, it's on to Lima where we will spend a couple of days.
Manta, Ecuador: Wednesday, January 14th
What a lovely time we had in this country! We arrived to clear skies and warm, mellow sunshine. Our wonderful tour guide met us at the ship and whisked us off to the countryside. She told us there are only two seasons in Ecuador, wet and dry. We are now at the transition between these two seasons, heading into the dry season. Manta is Ecuador's major port along the central coast. As we drove, we passed colorful fishing villages, unspoiled beaches and unusual tropical dry forests. The nearby town of Montecristi was actually the birthplace of the Panama hat.
Our all day tour started with a drive along the coast where we witnessed beautiful, pristine beaches. Along the way we drove through tiny fishing villages, where tuna and shrimp provide the major source of income for these communities. As we rose in elevation and moved away from the coast the surroundings changed immediately from green and lush to an absolutely dry land covered in brown, dead grass and small lifeless trees. Our guide told us that wildlife in Ecuador includes monkeys, deer, sloths, armadillos, pelicans, frigates, mockingbirds, owls, jaguar, macaws and parrots. Orchids grow abundantly here in the tropical climate. There are 4,100 types of orchids, with 2,500 of them native to Ecuador. As we continued to meander through the dry tropical forest we saw increased numbers of cactus and tropical plants one might expect to see in Hawaii or the Caribbean.
One spectacular site was the Tagua tree, which is a type of palm. The landscape was composed entirely of dead, brown grass and trees and yet, once in a while, this bright green tree stood alone as if to announce "don't give up - there is still life here." The Tagua tree yields seeds which, when carved, look like ivory. Consequently, the product is known as vegetal ivory. Jewelry made from these seeds is quite popular in this area.
As we continued to drive inland the tropical forest gave way to flat, dry valleys where cowboys still ride. cactus and scrub brush are the dominant features of the landscape. We were told that on a clear day you can see the Andes Mountains. However, today there was a haze which impeded a clear view of the towering mountain range. I noticed the houses along the road had very small windows. Our guide explained that in years past children did not have good relationships with their parents and they climbed out of the bedroom windows frequently at night. As a solution, houses were built with very small windows, making it impossible for children to escape without their parents' knowledge!
Religion plays a key role in Ecuadorean culture. The country is considered Catholic, however, Shamen continue to play a key role in everyday life. Local residents continue to be tied to a strong belief in spirits and multiple gods. Instead of having a community cemetery, each family has its own land next to their home in which family members are buried so their spirits can remain and protect the remaining family members.
We visited the historic, rural village of Mantena. The humble houses had grass or tin roofs and dirt floors. However, they all had flush toilets! Quite amazing out there in the bush. The people in the village were extremely open and gracious and welcomed us into their homes. I was struck by the cleanliness of the village. Even though these people have very few materials good they take meticulous care of their possessions and appears to be extremely happy. They have an uncomplicated and joyful spirit.
We returned to our van and got back on the road. We passed mango, papaya and lemon trees. We spotted owls and many brilliantly colored birds. We passed lots of 3-wheeled vehicles known as tuk-tuks similar to the ones we saw in Asia last year. Local people often use these carts as transportation instead of having their own cars. Otherwise, they use the public buses called Chivas which are colorful, open-air buses.
We made a lengthy stop at the lovely, calm Frailes beach. We didn't realize we were going to have a beach stop so we weren't prepared with swimsuits. Soooo, Bob and I just pulled up our pant legs and hopped in the water to get a sense of the temperature. It was like bath water. I never expected it to be so warm. We had a chance to relax on the beach but then had to hip hop back to the sidewalk over the extremely hot sand - not the most fun part of the stop. We cleaned and dried ourselves off and then boarded the van for a ride along the coast as we returned to the ship.
There was lots of activity along the coast as we drove. Many people were out of their houses enjoying the beautiful weather. Some were selling homemade goods, including jewelry, clothing and tortillas. Some of the people in our van wanted to try a tortilla so we made a stop at one of the street vendors. They didn't look like the tortillas we have at home. The ones made here are corn and yucca and look more like thick biscuits. They are not the flat tortillas we see in our U.S. markets.
I noticed a couple of interesting sites as we made our way back to the ship. We passed lots of large trees that looked absolutely dead but their trunks were covered with a beautiful, thin, and delicate layer of moss. It was a unique contrast.
As we neared our destination I spotted a large public bus with the back window completely covered with a picture of Jesus. It was quite refreshing to be in a culture where it's not politically incorrect to talk about or have public displays of Jesus.
Finally, just before we entered the port there was a very large statue of an elderly woman with a stooped back that serves as a monument to the many women who have spent their lives making Panama hats. As we learned previously, these hats are actually made in Ecuador but still called Panama hats!
We reached our port after a long, but very rewarding day of sightseeing. Feeling very blessed to have this opportunity. Next, we will be traveling to Peru for a week or so.
Our all day tour started with a drive along the coast where we witnessed beautiful, pristine beaches. Along the way we drove through tiny fishing villages, where tuna and shrimp provide the major source of income for these communities. As we rose in elevation and moved away from the coast the surroundings changed immediately from green and lush to an absolutely dry land covered in brown, dead grass and small lifeless trees. Our guide told us that wildlife in Ecuador includes monkeys, deer, sloths, armadillos, pelicans, frigates, mockingbirds, owls, jaguar, macaws and parrots. Orchids grow abundantly here in the tropical climate. There are 4,100 types of orchids, with 2,500 of them native to Ecuador. As we continued to meander through the dry tropical forest we saw increased numbers of cactus and tropical plants one might expect to see in Hawaii or the Caribbean.
One spectacular site was the Tagua tree, which is a type of palm. The landscape was composed entirely of dead, brown grass and trees and yet, once in a while, this bright green tree stood alone as if to announce "don't give up - there is still life here." The Tagua tree yields seeds which, when carved, look like ivory. Consequently, the product is known as vegetal ivory. Jewelry made from these seeds is quite popular in this area.
As we continued to drive inland the tropical forest gave way to flat, dry valleys where cowboys still ride. cactus and scrub brush are the dominant features of the landscape. We were told that on a clear day you can see the Andes Mountains. However, today there was a haze which impeded a clear view of the towering mountain range. I noticed the houses along the road had very small windows. Our guide explained that in years past children did not have good relationships with their parents and they climbed out of the bedroom windows frequently at night. As a solution, houses were built with very small windows, making it impossible for children to escape without their parents' knowledge!
Religion plays a key role in Ecuadorean culture. The country is considered Catholic, however, Shamen continue to play a key role in everyday life. Local residents continue to be tied to a strong belief in spirits and multiple gods. Instead of having a community cemetery, each family has its own land next to their home in which family members are buried so their spirits can remain and protect the remaining family members.
We visited the historic, rural village of Mantena. The humble houses had grass or tin roofs and dirt floors. However, they all had flush toilets! Quite amazing out there in the bush. The people in the village were extremely open and gracious and welcomed us into their homes. I was struck by the cleanliness of the village. Even though these people have very few materials good they take meticulous care of their possessions and appears to be extremely happy. They have an uncomplicated and joyful spirit.
We returned to our van and got back on the road. We passed mango, papaya and lemon trees. We spotted owls and many brilliantly colored birds. We passed lots of 3-wheeled vehicles known as tuk-tuks similar to the ones we saw in Asia last year. Local people often use these carts as transportation instead of having their own cars. Otherwise, they use the public buses called Chivas which are colorful, open-air buses.
We made a lengthy stop at the lovely, calm Frailes beach. We didn't realize we were going to have a beach stop so we weren't prepared with swimsuits. Soooo, Bob and I just pulled up our pant legs and hopped in the water to get a sense of the temperature. It was like bath water. I never expected it to be so warm. We had a chance to relax on the beach but then had to hip hop back to the sidewalk over the extremely hot sand - not the most fun part of the stop. We cleaned and dried ourselves off and then boarded the van for a ride along the coast as we returned to the ship.
There was lots of activity along the coast as we drove. Many people were out of their houses enjoying the beautiful weather. Some were selling homemade goods, including jewelry, clothing and tortillas. Some of the people in our van wanted to try a tortilla so we made a stop at one of the street vendors. They didn't look like the tortillas we have at home. The ones made here are corn and yucca and look more like thick biscuits. They are not the flat tortillas we see in our U.S. markets.
I noticed a couple of interesting sites as we made our way back to the ship. We passed lots of large trees that looked absolutely dead but their trunks were covered with a beautiful, thin, and delicate layer of moss. It was a unique contrast.
As we neared our destination I spotted a large public bus with the back window completely covered with a picture of Jesus. It was quite refreshing to be in a culture where it's not politically incorrect to talk about or have public displays of Jesus.
Finally, just before we entered the port there was a very large statue of an elderly woman with a stooped back that serves as a monument to the many women who have spent their lives making Panama hats. As we learned previously, these hats are actually made in Ecuador but still called Panama hats!
We reached our port after a long, but very rewarding day of sightseeing. Feeling very blessed to have this opportunity. Next, we will be traveling to Peru for a week or so.
Tuesday, January 20, 2015
Monday, January 12th: Panama Canal passage
What an incredible experience it was to observe and pass through this enormous engineering masterpiece!!! In 1904 the United States undertook the Herculean project of constructing an inter-oceanic passageway across the Isthmus of Panama to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It took 10 years and almost $400 million to complete the project but since its opening in August, 1914 thousands of vessels have transited the waterway. After the U.S. purchased rights to the land to build the massive canal in 1904, and its completion 10 years later, the Torrijos-Carter Treaty was signed in 1977 and provided for a slow and very gradual transition of administrative power from the U.S. to the Republic of Panama. Finally, after many years of working together as the government of Panama took more control of the canal, on December 31, 1999 the Republic of Panama assumed full responsibility for the administration of the canal.
The Panama Canal is 50 miles long from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It was cut through one of the narrowest and lowest saddles of the long, mountainous Isthmus that joins the North and South American continents and crosses the Continental Divide. The canal uses a system of locks, chambers with gates which open and close for the transit of ships. The locks operate as water elevators which raise the ships from sea level (either on the Atlantic or Pacific side) to the level of Gatun Lake, which is about 77 feet above sea level, in their transit of the channel through the Continental divide. There were three locks through which our ship passed during the transit, which took about 8-10 hours. As the ship reached one lock the gate opened until we were completely inside the lock, then it closed behind us. Very slowly, water started to seep inside our lock until it was even with the water level in front of us. Once we reached the same level as the water on the other side of the gate, the gate in front of us opened and we sailed through. We repeated this fascinating process three times until we arrived at the Pacific Ocean. What a fascinating learning experience. Now, we are on our way to Ecuador. We have a sea day before we arrive at our next destination so we have some time to relax and EAT (since it's been at least two hours since we've eaten)!!!!
The Panama Canal is 50 miles long from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It was cut through one of the narrowest and lowest saddles of the long, mountainous Isthmus that joins the North and South American continents and crosses the Continental Divide. The canal uses a system of locks, chambers with gates which open and close for the transit of ships. The locks operate as water elevators which raise the ships from sea level (either on the Atlantic or Pacific side) to the level of Gatun Lake, which is about 77 feet above sea level, in their transit of the channel through the Continental divide. There were three locks through which our ship passed during the transit, which took about 8-10 hours. As the ship reached one lock the gate opened until we were completely inside the lock, then it closed behind us. Very slowly, water started to seep inside our lock until it was even with the water level in front of us. Once we reached the same level as the water on the other side of the gate, the gate in front of us opened and we sailed through. We repeated this fascinating process three times until we arrived at the Pacific Ocean. What a fascinating learning experience. Now, we are on our way to Ecuador. We have a sea day before we arrive at our next destination so we have some time to relax and EAT (since it's been at least two hours since we've eaten)!!!!
Sunday, January 11th, Colon, Panama City, Panama
We arrived at the port in the late morning and left immediately on an all day tour to Panama City. For much of the 20th century, Panama City was actually two cities - one American and one Panamanian, separated by walls and fences. Throughout the building of the Panama Canal thousands of workers flooded the land to work on the construction project. Conditions on the Panama side became extremely crowded and run down. Although the fences were dismantled following the signing of the Panama Canal Treaties in 1977, the area remains poor and filled with wooden tenement houses which the other parts of Panama City consider to be a slum area. Thankfully, over time the city is building new roads and developments in this area and it is slowly being integrated into the new and modern Panama City which surrounds it.
We had a lengthy tour in this city. We were driven to the historic old town section of Panama City where we took a long walking tour and witnessed modern buildings interspersed with brick streets, and quiet plazas with a European atmosphere, ancient churches and monasteries. Although much of the neighborhood remains dilapidated, we were told that many of the city's nicest restaurants and bars are located here.
As we walked past a vendor selling Panama hats our guide shared with us that the famous hat is actually made in Ecuador!!!! It seems that ever since President Teddy Roosevelt was photographed wearing the hat when he traveled to this country to check on the progress of the Panama Canal, it has been associated with Panama!!!! While strolling along this quaint area we noticed lots of families riding 4-wheeled cycles covered with two rows of seats and a canopy covered top. Evidently, this is the way local residents enjoy a nice, sunny weekend day. It did look like they were having a great time. We also watched a family of young children playing on the side of a small, cramped and crowded side street in a small, plastic swimming pool someone had blown up for them. We were reminded how easy it is for young children to take pleasure and find joy in the simplest of pleasures, regardless of the difficulties in their daily lives.
Amazingly, we were able to walk right up to the Presidential Palace. There were a couple of guards at the entrance but it was quite incredible that we were able to get right outside the palace grounds. Equally amazing was to see very old, dilapidated buildings with laundry hanging outside the balconies built right next to the palace! As we walked along the streets of the old town we had an opportunity to visit the Plaza de la Cathedral. The church, built in 1688, had a baroque architectural feature with ornate stonework throughout the structure. Once inside, we walked into a separate room where we had an opportunity to view a large (maybe 20 x10 feet) Nativity scene. The work was extremely detailed and intricate. It was absolutely exquisite. I could have spent much longer looking at all of the different scenes but it was time to move on.
Typical houses in this area have balconies that were apparently used as places to escape from the heat buildup in the small houses, as gathering places for family members, as an outdoor space to hang wet laundry, and for extra storage. Every space is used in these small dwellings. As our small group marched toward the Plaza de la Independence we noticed that most of the houses had three stories. Our guide informed us that since many generations of extended families typically live together in a single house, the third story is often occupied by an elderly widow or spinster so that younger family members can look after her.
Once we re-boarded our bus and headed back to the ship we had a beautiful view of the modern, or new, Panama City skyline. One of the buildings that particularly stood out was the Revolution Tower, which is a modern skyscraper built with glass-paneled walls designed in a graceful spiral. It was absolutely spectacular.
As we returned to the seaside villages near the port we saw numerous small fishing boats emptying their catch for the day into huge containers. When a fisherman had caught a particularly large fish he held it up and presented it proudly with a huge smile on his face as our bus passed him.
We returned to the ship exhausted and a bit sunburned but thankful for a great day in which we were introduced to another culture. We are looking forward to tomorrow morning when our ship will pass through the Panama Canal beginning about 6:00 a.m. and will take most of the day.
We had a lengthy tour in this city. We were driven to the historic old town section of Panama City where we took a long walking tour and witnessed modern buildings interspersed with brick streets, and quiet plazas with a European atmosphere, ancient churches and monasteries. Although much of the neighborhood remains dilapidated, we were told that many of the city's nicest restaurants and bars are located here.
As we walked past a vendor selling Panama hats our guide shared with us that the famous hat is actually made in Ecuador!!!! It seems that ever since President Teddy Roosevelt was photographed wearing the hat when he traveled to this country to check on the progress of the Panama Canal, it has been associated with Panama!!!! While strolling along this quaint area we noticed lots of families riding 4-wheeled cycles covered with two rows of seats and a canopy covered top. Evidently, this is the way local residents enjoy a nice, sunny weekend day. It did look like they were having a great time. We also watched a family of young children playing on the side of a small, cramped and crowded side street in a small, plastic swimming pool someone had blown up for them. We were reminded how easy it is for young children to take pleasure and find joy in the simplest of pleasures, regardless of the difficulties in their daily lives.
Amazingly, we were able to walk right up to the Presidential Palace. There were a couple of guards at the entrance but it was quite incredible that we were able to get right outside the palace grounds. Equally amazing was to see very old, dilapidated buildings with laundry hanging outside the balconies built right next to the palace! As we walked along the streets of the old town we had an opportunity to visit the Plaza de la Cathedral. The church, built in 1688, had a baroque architectural feature with ornate stonework throughout the structure. Once inside, we walked into a separate room where we had an opportunity to view a large (maybe 20 x10 feet) Nativity scene. The work was extremely detailed and intricate. It was absolutely exquisite. I could have spent much longer looking at all of the different scenes but it was time to move on.
Typical houses in this area have balconies that were apparently used as places to escape from the heat buildup in the small houses, as gathering places for family members, as an outdoor space to hang wet laundry, and for extra storage. Every space is used in these small dwellings. As our small group marched toward the Plaza de la Independence we noticed that most of the houses had three stories. Our guide informed us that since many generations of extended families typically live together in a single house, the third story is often occupied by an elderly widow or spinster so that younger family members can look after her.
Once we re-boarded our bus and headed back to the ship we had a beautiful view of the modern, or new, Panama City skyline. One of the buildings that particularly stood out was the Revolution Tower, which is a modern skyscraper built with glass-paneled walls designed in a graceful spiral. It was absolutely spectacular.
As we returned to the seaside villages near the port we saw numerous small fishing boats emptying their catch for the day into huge containers. When a fisherman had caught a particularly large fish he held it up and presented it proudly with a huge smile on his face as our bus passed him.
We returned to the ship exhausted and a bit sunburned but thankful for a great day in which we were introduced to another culture. We are looking forward to tomorrow morning when our ship will pass through the Panama Canal beginning about 6:00 a.m. and will take most of the day.
Friday, January 9th and Saturday, January 10th: At Sea
After departing Key West we had two sea days before arriving in Panama. Normally, these days are very relaxing. However, with the construction noise, not so much. We enjoyed onboard lectures by destination consultants (they tell us about the sites to see in the upcoming ports) and talking with other passengers. The weather was warm but a bit cloudy. We started reading some of the books we brought with us and it was nice to have time to start this blog. When we're in port every day it is difficult to find time to write. We also enjoyed ordering "tea time" snacks at 4:00 p.m! Ah, such a life. We'll return home and reality will hit hard!!!!
On Saturday night we had the first show by the ship's group of entertainers. They are a nice and talented group of young people, although we are missing the group we got to know and love on our world cruise. Haven't seen these young people around the ship during the day, involved in activities with the guests, or having dinner with passengers like our other group did. Hopefully, they will make themselves more available as the cruise progresses.
Well, it's been at least a couple of hours since we've eaten so it's time to get ready for dinner!! I'll be back tomorrow after we have our day in Panama. Should be fun. Already miss all of you. Please keep us posted on what is going on in your lives so we rejoice in your blessings and share your needs in prayer.
Later that evening......
OK, just returned from dinner and MUST add this note. Our evening waiter on this cruise was our favorite waiter from our world cruise last year. On our last cruise, when we docked in his hometown of Cochin, India, his mother came aboard for the day and brought a few "eligible" young ladies for him to meet since he is still single. When we asked him how he felt about the situation he explained that Indian marriages are frequently arranged by families. He was fine with his mother bringing the young ladies to him. Afterward, he told her that he had only two requests. One was that the girl would be "a little bit pretty" and that she had a good education. Other than those requests, his family was free to choose his wife. OK, fast forward to our current cruise. We had a chance to talk with him at dinner tonight and ask him about his "status". He told us that he was engaged!!!! When we asked how it happened, he said that while he was working at sea his parents met with done girl's family and the two families decided that their children would be a good match. When Sham (our waiter) arrived home on vacation recently his parents took him to the young ladies home where he and his parents talked with the girl and her parents and decided that these two young people would, indeed, be married. The date is set for August. It will be a HUGE wedding with 2,500 guests. After talking a bit more, he invited us to attend the wedding. This would NEVER fly in the U.S. but it's a fascinating arrangement. Just thought I would share this story with you. Hopefully, you find it as interesting as I do. Now, finally, good night.
On Saturday night we had the first show by the ship's group of entertainers. They are a nice and talented group of young people, although we are missing the group we got to know and love on our world cruise. Haven't seen these young people around the ship during the day, involved in activities with the guests, or having dinner with passengers like our other group did. Hopefully, they will make themselves more available as the cruise progresses.
Well, it's been at least a couple of hours since we've eaten so it's time to get ready for dinner!! I'll be back tomorrow after we have our day in Panama. Should be fun. Already miss all of you. Please keep us posted on what is going on in your lives so we rejoice in your blessings and share your needs in prayer.
Later that evening......
OK, just returned from dinner and MUST add this note. Our evening waiter on this cruise was our favorite waiter from our world cruise last year. On our last cruise, when we docked in his hometown of Cochin, India, his mother came aboard for the day and brought a few "eligible" young ladies for him to meet since he is still single. When we asked him how he felt about the situation he explained that Indian marriages are frequently arranged by families. He was fine with his mother bringing the young ladies to him. Afterward, he told her that he had only two requests. One was that the girl would be "a little bit pretty" and that she had a good education. Other than those requests, his family was free to choose his wife. OK, fast forward to our current cruise. We had a chance to talk with him at dinner tonight and ask him about his "status". He told us that he was engaged!!!! When we asked how it happened, he said that while he was working at sea his parents met with done girl's family and the two families decided that their children would be a good match. When Sham (our waiter) arrived home on vacation recently his parents took him to the young ladies home where he and his parents talked with the girl and her parents and decided that these two young people would, indeed, be married. The date is set for August. It will be a HUGE wedding with 2,500 guests. After talking a bit more, he invited us to attend the wedding. This would NEVER fly in the U.S. but it's a fascinating arrangement. Just thought I would share this story with you. Hopefully, you find it as interesting as I do. Now, finally, good night.
Monday, January 19, 2015
Thursday, January 9th: Key West, Florida
We docked early in the morning at Key West, Florida where we spent a fun-filled day. First, we took a narrated trolley ride around the town to see the major sites, including Hemingway's house, the "Little White House" used extensively by President Truman when he vacationed, the southernmost point in the continental U.S., and many Jimmy Buffet landmarks including his house and bars where he played. After our tour we explored the town on foot. Unfortunately, Bob and I got separated in the crowd during our last trolley stop and didn't find one another until we returned to the ship. Those of you who know me may know that one of my worst nightmares in getting lost from Bob while we are in a new place, so I was a bit uncomfortable. However, in this case I knew the ship was nearby so I finally relaxed and enjoyed walking around and exploring the sights on foot by myself. Meanwhile, Bob returned to the areas we had passed on the trolley tour and took some great photos. He is really enjoying the new camera he got for Christmas since it is MUCH lighter than his old one. Any of you who have lifted his previous camera can attest to how heavy it was!!!!
We had no idea that Key West was such a quaint, charming, and entertaining town. Streets are shared by thousands of pedestrians, busses, trolleys, and taxis. Yet, everyone appears very relaxed and happy. Perhaps this attitude is inspired by the laid back nature (or something else) of their hometown hero, Jimmy Buffet!!!!! At any rate, it was a great place to spend the day. It reminded me a lot of Hawaii, which is one of my favorite places in the world.
The ship is docked next to a pier that has a very large plaza where there are a wide variety of street entertainers vying to capture the attention of the surrounding crowds. The one who seemed to be the most successful was a juggler who juggled fire sticks while riding a very tall unicycle. He was so successful at holding the spectator's attention that the other entertainers waited until he was finished before they started their shows!!
We re-boarded our ship and readied ourselves for dinner. The food on this cruise line is amazing. Not only is it delicious but the presentation is beautiful. I'm sure Bob will be snapping photos of some of the more unique and beautiful plates. We were seated at a table next to a most AMAZING couple from Scotland. We introduced ourselves and would up talking and laughing the entire evening. We spent a lot of time sharing stories and experiences about our children and grandchildren. We had so much fun with them and are thrilled they are on the ship with us. Although they live in Scotland, they also own a house and vineyard in Spain, where they do most of the work themselves (not a bad friend to have)!!! It sounds absolutely beautiful, but a lot of work.
After dinner the four of us wobbled off to the theater to listen to the evening's entertainment, who was a harpist from Peru. She was incredibly talented on the harp, as well as being able to stand up, concentrate, and play while the ship was swaying back and forth on 8-10 foot swells. Also impressive was the fact that she was wearing a full-length formal gown which she could have tripped on at any moment and at least 5" spike heels. Quite remarkable!!!
After the show we were quite ready to retire to our suite and go to bed, so we passed the opportunity to go to the disco and dance the night away to 70s music. Guess that just confirms that we're old.
We had no idea that Key West was such a quaint, charming, and entertaining town. Streets are shared by thousands of pedestrians, busses, trolleys, and taxis. Yet, everyone appears very relaxed and happy. Perhaps this attitude is inspired by the laid back nature (or something else) of their hometown hero, Jimmy Buffet!!!!! At any rate, it was a great place to spend the day. It reminded me a lot of Hawaii, which is one of my favorite places in the world.
The ship is docked next to a pier that has a very large plaza where there are a wide variety of street entertainers vying to capture the attention of the surrounding crowds. The one who seemed to be the most successful was a juggler who juggled fire sticks while riding a very tall unicycle. He was so successful at holding the spectator's attention that the other entertainers waited until he was finished before they started their shows!!
We re-boarded our ship and readied ourselves for dinner. The food on this cruise line is amazing. Not only is it delicious but the presentation is beautiful. I'm sure Bob will be snapping photos of some of the more unique and beautiful plates. We were seated at a table next to a most AMAZING couple from Scotland. We introduced ourselves and would up talking and laughing the entire evening. We spent a lot of time sharing stories and experiences about our children and grandchildren. We had so much fun with them and are thrilled they are on the ship with us. Although they live in Scotland, they also own a house and vineyard in Spain, where they do most of the work themselves (not a bad friend to have)!!! It sounds absolutely beautiful, but a lot of work.
After dinner the four of us wobbled off to the theater to listen to the evening's entertainment, who was a harpist from Peru. She was incredibly talented on the harp, as well as being able to stand up, concentrate, and play while the ship was swaying back and forth on 8-10 foot swells. Also impressive was the fact that she was wearing a full-length formal gown which she could have tripped on at any moment and at least 5" spike heels. Quite remarkable!!!
After the show we were quite ready to retire to our suite and go to bed, so we passed the opportunity to go to the disco and dance the night away to 70s music. Guess that just confirms that we're old.
Saturday, January 17, 2015
Tuesday, January 6th: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
The Elliott adventures continue. This time we are starting in Fort Lauderdale, cruising through the Panama Canal, then completely around South America, through the Caribbean Islands, and finally returning to Fort Lauderdale and back home to California. This adventure will be much shorter than our last one and will be a cruise only. We will be traveling for two months and will be home on March 10th.
Soooooo, here we go:
The cruise line arranged for us to stay the night at the absolutely magnificent Ritz Carlton in Fort Lauderdale, where we had an evening gala. We were thrilled beyond belief when we were escorted to an incredibly beautiful oceanfront room with a huge wall of glass and doors leading to an enormous balcony overlooking the pool, fine white sandy beach, and gorgeous clear blue ocean. The colors in the room were just as I had imagined for Florida. The furnishings were bright and warm and made us feel welcome, with turquoise blue, sunshine yellow, and vibrant red. Gorgeous live exotic plants were scattered throughout the room. It was a tropical paradise and I could already feel myself unwinding and starting to relax from the hectic Fall season.
I quickly unpacked my swimsuit and sunglasses and headed downstairs to the beautiful infinity pool. Amazingly, there was no one else enjoying the water so I enjoyed a quiet moment of embracing the warm, soothing sensation of the salt water as it gently washed over my skin and engulfed me in a sensation of peace, warmth, and tranquility. After my body was completely relaxed I managed to climb out of the pool and walked across the street to the majestic Atlantic Ocean There was a very different feeling from the beach on our Pacific Ocean in Southern California. The beach itself was not nearly as wide and the sand was whiter and finer than our beach at home. There were vendors renting cabanas and other beach-related accessories I was surprised that the beach was not crowded. One such a beautiful day in Southern California our beach would be jammed with locals, people from inland escaping the heat, as well as tourists. I ventured into the water. I was amazed at how warm the temperature was and how calm the water felt. I enjoyed my peaceful afternoon and then headed back to the room to get ready for the pre-cruise gala.
The gala was a lovely event. We sat with fascinating people from Australia and a representative from the Silverseas corporate office. The people we met, the sumptuous food and the elegant surroundings made the gala a wonderful event and a great start to our adventure. We returned to our incredible
room to get a good night's rest before we left for the ship the following afternoon.
The following day we boarded a van which took us to the ship. Our first afternoon and evening on the ship were wonderful. The moment we boarded we felt like we were home. This ship is the sister ship to the one we were on for our four-month world cruise so were were already very familiar with the deck plans. Such a great feeling to be back onboard. Immediately, we saw many, many staff and passengers who we met on our previous cruise so we had a great time reconnecting with them. It was such a lovely reunion.
We were greeted promptly with a glass of champagne Although we thought about saying no (for about a nano second), since it was only about 12:30 p.m. we took it gratefully, snapped our initial onboard photo and headed up to the pool deck while or room was being readied. There is such a warm and welcoming feeling on this cruise line. It is really a pleasure to be surrounded by such genuine and friendly people. The staff knows us by name and it does feel a bit like we've "come home" now that we're back on board. Sooooo excited to experience our adventures ahead.
Once our suite was ready our baggage was delivered and we began the big job of unpacking and finding a place for everything. We were greeted immediately with warm smiles and gracious offers of assistance by our butler, Ryan, and our lovely suite attendant, Karen, both from the Philippines. This time we are in a much smaller suite so we had to be somewhat creative to find space for all of our "stuff". We got everything put away (which took a couple of hours) then began to ready ourselves for dinner. Although the suite is not very big it is actually very comfortable and conveniently located in the middle of the ship. We are definitely ready to experience this "pretend" lifestyle for the next few weeks where our every need is anticipated and the biggest decision we have to make is whether we want lobster of Beef Wellington for dinner!!!
OK, we are experiencing our first onboard problem. It seems that the cruise line "neglected" to mention that they are remodeling the boutique, located directly beneath our suite. The noise from the demolition, drilling, pounding, and shouting below is ear-piercing. At times it is difficult to carry on a conversation or hear the T.V. We understand this construction is scheduled to continue until January 20th. The noise begins about 8:00a.m. and doesn't finish until at least 7:00p.m!! We have talked repeatedly to staff but so far haven't had a resolution to this problem. However, we don't spend too much time in our room and we are determined not to let is spoil our exciting adventure. Tonight the ship sails for our first port of call, Key West, Florida.
Soooooo, here we go:
The cruise line arranged for us to stay the night at the absolutely magnificent Ritz Carlton in Fort Lauderdale, where we had an evening gala. We were thrilled beyond belief when we were escorted to an incredibly beautiful oceanfront room with a huge wall of glass and doors leading to an enormous balcony overlooking the pool, fine white sandy beach, and gorgeous clear blue ocean. The colors in the room were just as I had imagined for Florida. The furnishings were bright and warm and made us feel welcome, with turquoise blue, sunshine yellow, and vibrant red. Gorgeous live exotic plants were scattered throughout the room. It was a tropical paradise and I could already feel myself unwinding and starting to relax from the hectic Fall season.
I quickly unpacked my swimsuit and sunglasses and headed downstairs to the beautiful infinity pool. Amazingly, there was no one else enjoying the water so I enjoyed a quiet moment of embracing the warm, soothing sensation of the salt water as it gently washed over my skin and engulfed me in a sensation of peace, warmth, and tranquility. After my body was completely relaxed I managed to climb out of the pool and walked across the street to the majestic Atlantic Ocean There was a very different feeling from the beach on our Pacific Ocean in Southern California. The beach itself was not nearly as wide and the sand was whiter and finer than our beach at home. There were vendors renting cabanas and other beach-related accessories I was surprised that the beach was not crowded. One such a beautiful day in Southern California our beach would be jammed with locals, people from inland escaping the heat, as well as tourists. I ventured into the water. I was amazed at how warm the temperature was and how calm the water felt. I enjoyed my peaceful afternoon and then headed back to the room to get ready for the pre-cruise gala.
The gala was a lovely event. We sat with fascinating people from Australia and a representative from the Silverseas corporate office. The people we met, the sumptuous food and the elegant surroundings made the gala a wonderful event and a great start to our adventure. We returned to our incredible
room to get a good night's rest before we left for the ship the following afternoon.
The following day we boarded a van which took us to the ship. Our first afternoon and evening on the ship were wonderful. The moment we boarded we felt like we were home. This ship is the sister ship to the one we were on for our four-month world cruise so were were already very familiar with the deck plans. Such a great feeling to be back onboard. Immediately, we saw many, many staff and passengers who we met on our previous cruise so we had a great time reconnecting with them. It was such a lovely reunion.
We were greeted promptly with a glass of champagne Although we thought about saying no (for about a nano second), since it was only about 12:30 p.m. we took it gratefully, snapped our initial onboard photo and headed up to the pool deck while or room was being readied. There is such a warm and welcoming feeling on this cruise line. It is really a pleasure to be surrounded by such genuine and friendly people. The staff knows us by name and it does feel a bit like we've "come home" now that we're back on board. Sooooo excited to experience our adventures ahead.
Once our suite was ready our baggage was delivered and we began the big job of unpacking and finding a place for everything. We were greeted immediately with warm smiles and gracious offers of assistance by our butler, Ryan, and our lovely suite attendant, Karen, both from the Philippines. This time we are in a much smaller suite so we had to be somewhat creative to find space for all of our "stuff". We got everything put away (which took a couple of hours) then began to ready ourselves for dinner. Although the suite is not very big it is actually very comfortable and conveniently located in the middle of the ship. We are definitely ready to experience this "pretend" lifestyle for the next few weeks where our every need is anticipated and the biggest decision we have to make is whether we want lobster of Beef Wellington for dinner!!!
OK, we are experiencing our first onboard problem. It seems that the cruise line "neglected" to mention that they are remodeling the boutique, located directly beneath our suite. The noise from the demolition, drilling, pounding, and shouting below is ear-piercing. At times it is difficult to carry on a conversation or hear the T.V. We understand this construction is scheduled to continue until January 20th. The noise begins about 8:00a.m. and doesn't finish until at least 7:00p.m!! We have talked repeatedly to staff but so far haven't had a resolution to this problem. However, we don't spend too much time in our room and we are determined not to let is spoil our exciting adventure. Tonight the ship sails for our first port of call, Key West, Florida.
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