First, we passed through the lovely village of Akaroa, which was settled in 1840 by both French and British settles. l As we began our drive through the town we could see the British influence in tgheir English gardens but as we reached the middle of the village it became quite French, with street names and storefronts that looked like they cold be in Paris.
As we left the quaint village of Akaroa our van maneuvered through the desolate countryside and we had spectacular views of the bay. Luckily, we were in a smaller car because a bus would never make it up the steep, narrow and winding roads. We had views of the beautiful Pacific Ocean, an extinct volcano and some gorgeous isolated bays. After a lovely ride we arrived at the Paua Bay Farm. The owner, a sixth-generation French descendent of the John's family welcomed us with open arms and a broad smile. He seemed genuinely happy to have us visiting his farm. Murray was a tall, very lean man dressed in well worn work clothes and boots. His skin was very tanned from working in the sun and his hands were rough from all the physical labor. Although he had a very gentle and compassionate demeanor, we were soon to learn he must be quite rugged and strong to withstand some of the hardships his family has faced over the years.
Murray led us up the path to a grass covered hill, accompanied by his border collie. He began to share stories of the importance of his dogs in caring for the farm. He talked about how he raises the dogs from birth. When they are first born they lie in his kitchen. Murray and his wife get up every morning and patiently clean up the mess created during the night. They treat their puppies with respect, as a member of their family. As the puppies grow they teach them the commands they will need to herd the sheep. He emphasized over and over what a significant role the dogs play in caring for the sheep. The depth of love and respect Murray has for his dogs in immediately evident and very heartwarming. We noted there was a group of sheep grazing on the nearby hill. With the dog at his side Murray gave him a command in a very matter-of-fact tone. The dog, named Blue, immediately took off running up the hill and then turned toward the sheep, guiding them quite efficiently down the hill. It was amazing to watch how fast Blue ran up he hill. It was if he were running as fast as he could, with all of his strength to please his owner. Murray continued to give Blue commands as he herded the sheep down the hill. He didn't scream or make any physical movements. He simply instructed Blue in a very respectful tone and the dog immediately responded. Blue quickly brought the sheep down the hill until they were right in front of us. It was amazing to watch. When Murray gave the command for Blue to stop, he immediately stood still and didn't move a muscle until Murray gave him the next command. Just remarkable to watch the respect and bond between Murray and Blue. All animals should be so loved and respected.
Next, Murray took us inside the shearing shed to watch him shear one of the sheep. Before he did the shearing he told us about how his family came to settle in New Zealand. It seems that his ancestors left Europe to escape a bit of trouble and to build a new life. They arrived on this hill where there was nothing but empty land on top of a beautiful mountain. His family purchased the land. Since the land was bare his ancestors had to find a way to run water to their new home. They cut down some trees, hallowed them out and bound them together to create pipes to collect the water. They ran the pipes from the top of the hill and brought them down to their farm. Slowly, they built a house and sheds for the animals. They were quite self-reliant and over the years proved to be quite resilient. Murray told us that life continues to be hard and they have struggled to maintain their farm, but I got the feeling that there is nowhere else in the world he would rather be than on this beautiful land. His eyes glistened as he talked about his past generations. He talked with such admiration and pride when describing how his family built this land into a loving and beautiful family home.
As he spoke he talked about the hardship that he and his immediate family have endured. He told us that a few years ago they were unable to make ends meet so they decided to evolve the family business and open their farm to day tours as well as a bed and breakfast. Although I am sure this is not an ideal solution for the Johns family, they were most gracious hosts. I am so glad people have a chance to meet them and hear their story. Murray is an incredible story teller and his family's life story is such an inspiration. We were so fortunate to have an opportunity to spend time with them.
Once he told us the story of the farm, he took off his jacket and brought out one of the sheep. It was amazing to watch how gently, but efficiently, he was able to control this animal while shearing it. The respect he has for his animals is obvious and his care in handling them is such a privilege to watch.
After he sheared the sheep we walked back down the path to their home where Murray's wife Sue had freshly baked scones and hot tea and coffee for us. We had time to walk around the magnificent gardens their grandmother had planted and they continue to maintain and expand. They were absolutely stunning. We walked around curved gravel paths, always excited to see what was around the next corner. We came upon a small white structure that Murray explained was the first house built on the property. Amazing to imagine raising a family in such a tiny space. Now, the doves like to roost inside and Murray had to coax them out so we could see it.
After our delicious refreshments and time spent with the Johns family we got back into the van for our return to the ship. I could spend a couple more days here talking with this beautiful family and enjoying the peaceful surroundings. I felt a bit sad to leave but hopefully I will find my way back here someday. It was such an honor to meet and spend time with them.
Once we arrived back in the village we quickly ran back to the dock to board a small boat for a two-hour sail around the harbor, with a brief time in the Pacific Ocean to look for dolphins. The scenery was beautiful, with very high barren cliffs and numerous caves. This area must be a haven for lots of cave climbers. It looks like a perfect environment for them. There were numerous volcanic formations, creating a spectacular seascape. As we sailed we saw Hector dolphins which is the smallest and rarest dolphin in the world. We also saw fur seals, blue penguins, and a wide variety of seabirds. It was a very relaxing way to end of day in Akaroa before we headed back to our ship.
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