Natal was quite an interesting place. Of course, the day was even lovelier because we had warm sunshine and a few thick white clouds scattered throughout the sky. The temperature was warm, but not unbearable, probably about 90 degrees. Humidity was high, so it felt much warmer. Still, it was more comfortable than it was in some of the earlier ports. Natal is frequently referred to as the "sun capital." The weather forecast had been for rain in the morning so we were thrilled when the city lived up to its nickname! There were expansive areas of sand dunes on which the locals enjoy activities such as skiing, tobogganing, riding dune buggies, or even camel rides. Since Natal was the closest port to Africa in the Americas, it was used extensively during WWII as an American airbase. It was used as a launching point for transport of planes, troops, and supplies to Northern Africa. Currently, Natal enjoys a peaceful, calm existence where our guide kept reminding us that people here move very slowly, are always late, and are very loud!!!! She explained that although it is a Saturday, the town is quiet today because Carnival just ended a couple of days ago and people are still recovering. They make a slow transition back to work. One owner went to work to open his shop this morning and waited for his employees to show up. He kept waiting but no one appeared. He finally decided that none of his employees were coming to work so he closed the shop again and went home!!!! Our guide continued to explain the attitude in Natal. She told us that if you go to a restaurant for a meal you can order your food and then wait for as much as two hours for it to arrive!
We had only two stops on today's tour. First, we traveled to a very large arts and crafts market. This was a tourist center with a large collection of small booths selling their wares. The main product was lace trimmed table runners, placemats, tablecloths, etc. as well as many crocheted shawls, tops, scarves, t-shirts and children's clothing. In addition, there was the usual collection of pottery dolls depicting Brazilian women dressed for Carnival or doing everyday chores such as carrying baskets filled with fruits and vegetables. Unfortunately, no one took U.S. dollars and we didn't have any local money so were were unable to make any purchases.
Lastly, we spent a majority of our time at a school which teaches Capoeira, which is a mix of dance, acrobatics and martial arts. Capoeira was a form of self-protection disguised within a dance. It was developed by slaves during the 19th century as a form of survival in extremely harsh times. The "dance" utilizes acrobatics, cleverness and cunning through the extensive use of sweeps, kicks and head butts. It became such a successful tool for slaves to defend themselves that it was banned for a period of time. However, in 1932 the Brazilian ruler removed the ban and recognized the dance as an important cultural art form. It has since become a national treasure and is the second most popular sport in Brazil (soccer is the most popular). Before we arrived, our guide explained that the "Master" at this school established this small, non air-conditioned school 30 years ago and has been teaching young people since that time. He established the school in the poorest neighborhood of the city to give young people an incentive to remain in school and do well. Evidently, school only lasts half-day here. There are two sessions - morning or afternoon. The Capoeira master realized that students in this area needed more structure in their daily routine to keep them busy and out of trouble. So, he began teaching them how to perform this dance. As a requirement for continuing in the group, students must do well in school, get good grades, maintain a good attitude and register regular attendance. If they do not meet these requirements they may not remain in the dance group. Brazilians are very proud of their country and traditions. The Capoeira is an important part of their culture and they are eager to share it with visitors.
We had an opportunity to enjoy young children, just beginning to learn the Capoeira as well as students who had graduated from high school and were quite proficient in their dance skills. After graduation, many students continue to return to the studio to assist the master instructor, refine their skills and encourage the youth. It was quite an inspirational visit at the Natal Capoeira Boa Vontade School, directed by Mestre Canelao. It was a wonderful performance and we thoroughly enjoyed our time there. If anyone is interested in reading more about this intriguing art form, or watching this school perform, there are plenty of videos on YouTube.
As we re-boarded our bus and headed back to the ship, one of our passengers asked the guide about food and restaurants in the area. The guide told us that people in Natal are shrimp lovers. They enjoy all types of fish, but shrimp, crab and lobster are definitely on top of the list. She also told us about a very local recipe for Pacoca Sertaneja, which uses "meat of the sun." They use heavily salted beef, dry it in the sun, then mix it with flavorings and vegetables. It actually sounded quite delicious so we asked where we could try it this afternoon. She told us that, unfortunately, since it was Sunday, all the restaurants and shops closed at noon so we would be unable to have any today. Darn!!! We just returned to the ship and had our usual tuna sandwich. Arriving at our last port in Brazil tomorrow, Fortaleza.
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