Today was another full-day excursion. We were still a bit tired from the previous day's activities but excited to see what we could learn about this new area. As we left the port in a small bus our guide told us that we were about to enter the driest desert in the entire world. Unlike many of the world's great deserts, where many types of wildlife and plants thrive, there are only a very few living creatures here. There are no snakes, except for one very small (about 6") non-poisonous one, and a tiny scorpion which is not strong enough to penetrate human skin. Every once in a great while we passed a lone cactus in the midst of the light brown colored sand. A few of them stood proud but most of them were bent and a bit withered with time. Rain is extremely rare in this area. They receive approximately .04" of precipitation each year.
As we neared our destination, the village of Codpa, we could start to see greenery ahead of us. It looked like trees and foliage. What a stark contrast to the landscape through which we had been driving through for quite some time. As we continued to the village we discovered a green valley filled with a river and lush vegetation. There are 100 villagers who live here and live off the land. It's quite incredible to travel for hours in this barren dry land and suddenly see shades of green landscape dotted with bright, colorful buildings and warm, gracious people who welcomed us with open arms and huge smiles. Villagers survive here due to the river which flows through the valley floor and feeds the rich soil that surrounds it. They are able to grow a variety of crops, including grapes from which they produce wine. They also raise cattle, goats, alpacas, or llamas they need for meat or transportation. The residents here are quite interesting. Although there is a Catholic Church which many of them attend, and they identify themselves as Catholic, it sounds like most people are guided by their spirit world. They believe in a sun and moon god, as well as an abundance of spirits from whom they seek help and guidance in their daily lives.
Our first stop in the village was at a restaurant where they served us a glass of wine produced very proudly in the village. Unfortunately, I took one small sip and nearly gagged. Not sure what they did to those poor grapes but it certainly didn't taste like wine. They did have some toasted seeds on the tables which were quite tasty. So, I stuck with seeds and bottled water!
The village has a shaman, or medicine man, who conducts ceremonies for the community. He performed a ceremony for us in which he used coca leaves to bless the mother earth. He started a fire in the pit and once it was burning strong he sprinkled a few leaves over each corner of ground. These are the same type of leaves from which cocaine is produced. Many villagers chew them for a little "boost" to their day. We were told that these villagers only use the coca leaves for making medicines and ceremonies. Evidently, the leaves make a great remedy for altitude sickness, among other ailments. On top of the leaves he sprinkled a bit of wine. After some chanting and dancing he invited a man and woman from the village to spread the leaves and sprinkle them with the wine. The shaman then waved the smoke around to purify us for mother earth. Another ceremony, which we did not see, takes place when a baby girl turns two years old. From birth, her hair is not cut. Then, at two years, there is a ceremony with the shaman and community in which her hair is cut, given to members of the village who, in turn, present the little girl with money.
After the shaman's ceremony, the villagers put on a performance of traditional dance for us. What they lacked in talent was more than made up for in their pure joy of sharing their music and dance. Their colorful costumes, handkerchiefs waving as they moved, and bright smiles made for a very entertaining time. When the performance concluded we walked over to the Catholic Church which was built in 1618 and is the oldest church in Chile. Although it was small by most standards it was meticulously cared for and quite dignified.
As we said goodbye to the villagers of Codpa, we boarded our bus and headed back out into the desert. I left with the feeling that I had just spent some time with a very special group of people and I will not forget this visit to the middle of the desert. As we started our return journey I realized that as far as we could see there was only mountainous desert and deep dry valleys which were formed by a combination of glaciers and erosion from water. Our guide explained to us that 11,000,000 years ago this entire area was submerged in water. Glaciers moved slowly through the landscape, creating deep valleys. Tough to believe looking around now!!! We saw dried up river beds where water once flowed freely. As the afternoon wore on and the hot sun started to set, the color of the desert came alive. Shades of red, orange and yellow bounced off the rooks and filled the landscape with warmth.
Although we continued on the desert road for over two hours, we passed no cars. The only evidence that anyone else had visited previously were tracks imprinted on the sand by off-road vehicles. As we began the transition away from the desert and back to civilization the rocks began to disappear and the mountains took on a softer, more welcoming appearance. The late afternoon sun created splashes of light and dark brown mixed with soft shades of yellow and red as the light shimmered on the slopes. It looked as soft as velvet and inviting enough to roll down the hillsides.
As we neared the city, trees began to dot the hills and the valley floors became green. Small trickles of water became streams enabling grass and shrubs to grow. Acacia trees and cactus flowers dotted the landscape. We began to see other cars, confirming we had again entered an inhabited area. Our guide filled us in on a few additional facts about the town of Arica.
In the city of Arica there are two tectonic plates. Last year the largest earthquake here measured at 7.2. Many of the original buildings in this area have been destroyed and rebuilt many times.
Farming is a huge part of the Peruvian economy so a few years ago the government sent farmers to Israel to learn how to farm the dry, rocky ground. It was a very successful learning experience for the Peruvians and now they grow olives, garlic, onion, corn, watermelon, a variety of tropical fruits, tomatoes and corn. Exporting produce has been a boost to the economy. Fishing is also a major industry here. Salmon, anchovies, and sand fish are major exports.
Birds migrate through this area as their last stop before they cross the enormous stretch of desert. Condors floated silently and effortlessly through the dry air.
We returned to the bustling town of Arica. Before boarding the ship we stopped for a brief tour of the town square. The town was preparing for their Carnival which begins this weekend so workers were busy setting up tents and booths. Unfortunately, it's time for us to leave so we won't have the opportunity to enjoy the festivities. We'll have to wait until we arrive in Rio to experience the real Carnival!!!!
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