Chan May, Vietnam - Sunday, March 9

Today was a lengthy excursion, covering a number of sites.  We climbed on the bus shortly after 8:00a.m. and headed for the city of Hue (pronounced 'Whay').  During the 1-/2 hour bus ride we had an opportunity to see quite a bit of the countryside before we reached our destination.  We had expected much warmer temperatures here but we were met, once again, by clouds and periodic light mist.  Actually, it worked out quite well since we did a lot of walking outdoors today.  First, however, I must talk about the traffic and the way people drive here.  It's absolutely terrifying.  I don't even know where to begin!  The highway we were on had a single lane in each direction.  We traveled up and down mountains, around sharp turns, and traffic circles.  There were occasional traffic lights as we drove through the towns.  Sooooo, there are thousands of motor scooters on all of the roads.  There are also lots and lots of very large tourist buses and heavy duty trucks carrying products, such as timber.  It seems that none of these drivers are very excited about sharing the road.  Our guide told us that red lights at intersections are treated as a suggestion and not many people pay attention to them.  If you don't die in an intersection collision you still have many many opportunities to due on the road.  If you are traveling faster than the car, scooter, bus or truck in front of you, you simply honk your horn and go around.  It doesn't seem to make a difference if traffic is headed straight for you, you just go.  There was one time today that I watched a bus going around a truck and the car in back of the bus squeezed in BETWEEN the bus and the truck while one was passing the other!!!  Of course, that's not to even mention the oncoming traffic!!!  I do not know how they didn't collide but somehow everyone got through without a scratch!!!  Oh, and if you're not killed in a car accident, you've got a great chance to end your life as a pedestrian.  There are really no real breaks in traffic so our guide told us to just wait for a tiny break, then stop off of the curb, walk slowly into the street, don't stop, just keep walking slowly, and don't make eye contact with drivers until you get safely across the street.  Now, this approach may sound good in theory but let me assure you that walking in front of dozens of scooters, huge buses, trucks, and cars is horribly frightening.  Since were quite apprehensive the first time we had to cross a street our guide had all of us cross together in one large group as he assured us that drivers would be able to avoid us  Miraculously, he was correct and we're all still alive at the end of the day.  Even my husband was holding on for dear life.  Those of you who know Bob understand that if HE was scared it must have been REALLY bad (since many of us are terrified of his driving at home)!!!

Now, a few notes about the sites we saw today.  The countryside was filled with lots of vegetation.  Since the government in Vietnam is Communist who promote agriculture, most of the citizens are farmers.  We saw lots of rice fields as well as a variety of fruit trees and vegetables.  Farmers were in the fields wearing their conical hats, often called coolies, and they were carrying their produce with a long bamboo pols slung over one shoulder and a large basket hanging on each end of the pole.  Even elderly people were working in the fields.

Once we arrived in Hue we visited the Royal Citadel.  The Nguyen Emperors rose to glory during their reign from 1802 to 1945 and were the last ruling family in Vietnam.  The Royal Citadel served as the center of Imperial activities for 13 emperors and covers a large area with many palaces and service buildings.  Although a few of the buildings remain, a majority of them were destroyed in the Vietnam War (or American War, as it is referred to here).  They are in the midst of rebuilding the structures, but will take a very long time.  Approximately 70% of the structures were destroyed so there is a massive amount of rebuilding needed.  The enclosed city has been compared to China's Forbidden City, since the entire massive enclosure served only the emperors, their family, servants, concubines, eunuchs, and staff.  Our guide seemed fixated on the concubines, and repeatedly told us stories about the 400-500 young women who left their home to live within the compound and "service" the emperor.  He said that it was a very happy household.  I'm thinking the Emperor might have been a happy camper but the concubines, not so much!!  Even when the Emperor died the young women were forced to remain within the compound for their remaining years.

After touring the remaining or restored buildings and viewing a model of how the compound looked before the war destroyed it we were off to see the Thien Mu Pagoda.  In times past this area was a hotbed for anti-government protests, but now serves as a serene place where novice gardeners tend bonsai and monks deliver incantations.  The pagoda was located on the banks of the Perfume River so once we had completed our tour, we boarded a Dragon Boat and cruised down the river.  Evidently, this is the method used years ago by the emperors to cruise the river.  It was a very peaceful ride and we watched water buffalo grazing along the banks as we passed them quietly  Now, the not-so-peaceful part of the cruise was that on board there was a crew member who constantly tried to sell us all sorts of clothing items and trinkets.  Took a bit of pleasure out of the ride when they repeatedly brought different objects up to us for purchase.  Since I neglected to bring my purse with me they left me along for the most part but really hovered over my seatmates.

Before lunch we made a brief stop at the factory where the workers craft beautiful embroidered items, including scarves, fireplace screens, room dividers, and wall art.  We watched the women as they worked their fingers through each stitch.  Can't imagine how long it must take to create some of the items.  They really were exquisite but our group was quite rushed so we didn't have enough time to shop (maybe a good thing)!  We continued on our way to the lovely restaurant where we were treated to a delicious Vietnamese buffet while being entertained by musicians playing traditional music and a group of beautiful dancers performed.

We made one last stop to view the area known as the Emperor's Tomb.  Not much to say about this place other than it was located on an extremely picturesque spot overlooking the river, with beautiful gardens and landscaped grounds.  Evidently the Emperor buried here was considered the most brilliant emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty.  All I know is that he was smart enough to select a gorgeous place to be buried!!!

We now climbed back on the bus for a hair raising trip back to the ship.  You see, our tour was running late and the ship was scheduled to sail in 45 minutes.  Unfortunately we were about 1-1/2 hours away from port!!!  Soooo, now our bus drier drove VERY fast all the way back to the ship.  Oh my goodness, think of all the things I mentioned above about the roads and traffic, now imagine all of that at breakneck speed!!! We could hardly stand up by the time we reached the ship because we were frozen in place with fear!!!  At least we returned safely and are now ready for more land adventures in this fascinating country of Vietnam.